Manufacturer: Astronomik Filter
Product number: 8H00T0

EUR 139,00


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Astronomik Clip Filter for mirrorless APS-C Cameras of the Canon EOS M System
The OWB filter would usually not be designated as an "astronomical" filter. The intention is to enable converted cameras (without inbuilt IR-filter) in order to be used for ´terrestrial´ photography.

The OWB (Original White Balance) filter shifts the complete spectrum of a converted DSLR in such a manner that the camera will not be exclusively usable for astro-photography. Therefore the decision, which in former times had to be made, whether to ´victimize´ a camera in order to exclusively use it for astronomical tasks or accept the lower sensitivity on the red end of the spectrum, it is now a thing of the past and disencumber your purse, too.

How it works
Cameras which have been converted for astronomical use by removing the inbuilt IR-filter or by substituting it with a filter with greater range for H-alpha, have a white balance that made them unable for ´terrestrial´ purpose. The spectral sensitivity of the camera will be changed by an OWB Filter to the former range. In other words: The OWB pretend to be the conventional built-in filter!

Compatibility
The clip filters for EOS M can be used with the models M1, M10, M3, M5, M6, M6MkII and M50.

The transmission curve:

On the horizontal axis, the wavelength is plotted in nanometers. 400 nm corresponds to a deep blue, at 520 nm the human eye sees green, at 600 nm red.


At 656 nm is the known H-alpha emission line of hydrogen, around 500 nm the two [O III] lines of oxygen, at 486 nm the H-beta line of hydrogen, around 672 nm the two [S II] lines of sulfur. The square brackets indicate that these are forbidden lines.
On the vertical axis the transmission is plotted in %.
The green line shows the transmission of the filter.


A short guide for selecting the right filter
Lots of customers are overwhelmed by the vast number of filters offered by Astronomik. Due to that they give you a short guide how to select the right filter for your application below:

Astronomik´s normal recommendation for the "First Filter" is the CLS filter. The CLS blocks all unwanted artifical light pollution and natural airglow and gives you a dark background in your images. When using this filter you may expose much longer than without, so you will be able to pick much fainter structures and objects. The filter is designed in such a way that all objects are given in their natural colors - they would look the same if your human eye would be much more sensitive!

The CLS is the fist choice for any applications like night-scape photography and time lapse movies!

Important: The standard CLS has no built-in IR-blocker. In case your camera has been modified for astrophotography, please take the CLS-CCD which has a built-in IR-blocker!

If you have to work under a heavily light polluted sky, the UHC is a good choice too. Its transmission curve is very tight. It gives you the light from the Hß, [O III], Hα and [S II] lines in one single exposure. The reduction of light pollution is much stronger than the CLS/CLS-CCD, but the filter will work for gas nebulas only - any galaxies and open or globular clusters are filtered out! You will get "false colors" with the UHC, not natural colors like with the CLS/CLS-CCD.

The UHC-E has a more broadband light transmission. Here stars are less strongly suppressed, helpful for nebulae with star clusters.

If you want to die deeper into astrophotography, you should think about emission line filters centered on OIII, H-alpha and SII, available either with 12 nm or even 6 nm bandwidth. With these filters you can do ultra-deep images even under the worst sky you can imagine plus the full moon high up in the sky. The emission line filters isolate the light from a very tight range of wavelengths, don´t get any color information. If you want to create color images (false color like images from the HST), you will need all three filters to mix the three channels into a final color image.

When using DSLR cameras without IR cut filter in astronomy, we recommend the UV-IR block filters of the L-1, L-2 and L-3 series to correct chromatic aberrations when using refractive optics (camera lenses, refractors). Depending on the color correction of your scope you may use a wider spectral window for the luminance data. The L1 filter has the widest spectral window, the L2 is about the same as our current L-Filter and the L3 is much narrower.

If you use an optical system that is more or less free of chromatic aberration you should get an L1 filter for your setup. For general use the L2 filter is well suited to most optical systems with a corrector, flattener or reducer in the optical train while the L3 filter is designed for users of refractors with a less-than-perfect color correction.

As protection against dust in DSLR cameras without IR cut filter, the MC clear glass filter is suitable. It blocks neither visible light nor UV or IR, but is parfocal with the other clip filters for Canon EOS-M cameras.

Especially made for planetary imaging are the ProPlanet IR pass filters. The IR light transmitted by them is less sensitive to air turbulence ("seeing"), which makes the images sharper, with increasingly longer wavelengths being increasingly less affected.
Spectral sensitivity with camera:like human eye
UV and IR blocking:yes
Substrate:Precision polished optical glass
Substrate thickness:1 mm
Inserting and removing:within seconds
Camera and lens funtions:unaffected
Anti reflective coating:completely resistant against high humidity, scratches and aging effects
1 filter in plastic box



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